Unbreakable Wood
Unbreakable wood is ideal for bowsprits and ensign staffs, which are susceptible to accidental breakage.
Ramin is an excellent wood to use for them because of its close grain and its hardness enables a crisp finish to be achieved.
Cut two pieces of timber the length of the intended spar or staff, wide enough for it but half its thickness. Make sure the faces to be joined are as accurate as possible so the joint will not be too noticeable.
With a sharp tenon saw, cut a groove along the middle of each piece. Cut a piece of piano wire; for a spar a little shorter than its length; for a staff a little longer. Lay the piano wire in the groove. Open up the groove with a rat-tail file if it is not big enough.
Apply epoxy to both pieces making sure it is worked into the groove. For a spar, lay the piano wire centrally in the groove, having it projecting a little at one end for a staff so that the cap can be fitted to it.
Place the other piece of timber on top and clamp the two together while the epoxy sets.
For a spar, make a short length of wood the same length as the piano wire. Push it into the hole at each end before the epoxy sets and trim off the surplus. When the epoxy has set, plane or sand to eight sides and then round off. Taper a spar if required.
Make a cap for a staff from two disks of ply with a hole in one to fit the piano wire projection. If of sufficient size,
drill two 1mm holes close together for the halyard before epoxying in place.
A staff 3.5mm in diameter has been made by this method using 1.5mm piano wire, but one of much smaller diameter could be made using thinner wire.
Mahogany/Teak Stain
The problem with most wood stains is that they soak into the wood making them impossible to remove if not right, and they tend to penetrate end grain too deeply making the wood too dark. It may also be difficult to get the right colour and to adjust their strength.
The stain overcomes all these problems. Exactly the right colour can be obtained; it can be sanded off if not right and it does not penetrate end grain. Very satisfactory results have been achieved with it.
Small tubes of Artists' oil paint are required - raw umber and light red, as well as White Spirit and a small container with an air-tight lid.
Put a small quantity of raw umber in the container and add just a little light red - more for mahogany - less for teak. Mix well and add just enough White Spirit to make a watery consistency. Try if out on a piece of scrap wood to get the right colour and strength - more White Spirit will lighten it.
If building a boat from ply and parts are to be varnished, such as the super-structure and cockpit, stain all the parts before assembly and apply varnish next to where joints will be to protect the wood from any glue over-runs, otherwise the glue will show through the varnish.
This stain can also be used to make artificial wood veneer. Brush it onto thin white paper with all the brush strokes running the same direction and the effect of wood grain will be achieved! When stuck onto something made of plastic and varnished, it gives it the appearance of being made of wood.
These two tips come from Richard Bass. Thanks very much for sending them in.
If you have any tips you would like to share - then send them to me.